How to Scan Your Outboard Engine
Best practices for getting the most accurate results from the AI Outboard Scanner. Better photos = better detection.
Each scan uses server resources that are non-refundable.
Take a moment to review these tips before your first scan. Good photos on the first try save you time and resources. See our Refund Policy for details.
How the Scanner Works
Upload Photos
Take 3–10 photos and upload them through the scanner.
AI Analyzes
GPT-4o vision examines every pixel — cowling shape, decals, colors, text.
Database Match
Results cross-referenced against 5,000+ known engine models.
Review & List
Confirm or correct the suggestions, then post your listing.
Photo Tips for Best Results
Take 3–10 Photos
More angles = better accuracy. The AI cross-references multiple views to narrow down the exact make, model, and year. One photo works, but 5+ is ideal.
Use Natural Daylight
Photograph outdoors or in a well-lit garage. Avoid harsh shadows, backlighting, or dim indoor lighting. Overcast days produce the most even, shadow-free lighting.
Hold Your Phone Steady
Blurry photos kill accuracy. Hold the phone with both hands, tap to focus on the engine, and wait for the image to sharpen before snapping. Use your phone’s grid lines for framing.
Fill the Frame
The engine should occupy at least 60–70% of the photo. Don’t stand 20 feet away — step close enough that decals, cowling shapes, and trim details are clearly visible.
Capture All Sides
Walk around the engine. Front, back, left side, right side, and top-down. Each angle reveals different identification markers — the AI uses all of them.
Close-Ups of Labels & Decals
Zoom in on the model sticker, serial number plate, HP rating decal, and any manufacturer badges. These are goldmines for the AI’s text recognition.
Angles to Capture
| # | Angle | Why It Matters |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Front View (Cowling Face) | Shows the manufacturer logo, air intakes, and cowling profile — the AI’s primary identification features. |
| 2 | Left Side Profile | Reveals the full cowling silhouette, color scheme, and often the HP decal or model badge. |
| 3 | Right Side Profile | May show the serial number plate, additional decals, or asymmetric features. |
| 4 | Rear View (Transom Side) | Exposes the exhaust housing, tilt/trim mechanism, and lower unit — critical for stroke type and shaft length. |
| 5 | Model/Serial Number Plate | The single most important close-up. Usually on the transom bracket or under the cowling. This confirms make, model, and year definitively. |
| 6 | Top-Down (Cowling Top) | Shows cowling shape, vents, and sometimes hidden manufacturer markings. |
| 7 | Lower Unit Close-Up | Helps identify shaft length, propeller type, and whether it’s a long or short shaft configuration. |
Do’s and Don’ts
Do This
- Clean the engine before photographing — remove dirt, algae, and water spots
- Remove the engine cover/cowling for at least one interior shot if possible
- Include the serial number plate close-up (under cowling or on transom bracket)
- Photograph in landscape (horizontal) orientation for side profiles
- Make sure the HP decal is legible in at least one photo
- Use your phone’s highest resolution setting (not screenshot or low-res mode)
Don’t Do This
- Use photos with heavy filters, HDR effects, or color adjustments
- Photograph in the dark or with flash (creates glare on cowling)
- Submit screenshots of other listings or web images — original photos only
- Include multiple engines in one photo — one engine per scan session
- Upload extremely small images (under 500px wide) or heavily compressed JPEGs
- Photograph from 20+ feet away — the engine should fill most of the frame
Phone Camera Settings
iPhone Users
- • Go to Settings → Camera → Formats
- • Select “Most Compatible” (this shoots in JPEG instead of HEIC)
- • HEIC files work too — our scanner converts them automatically — but JPEG is the safest option
- • Keep HDR off for engine photos (reduces color distortion)
- • Use the standard 1x lens, not ultra-wide or telephoto
Android Users
- • Most Android phones shoot in JPEG by default — no changes needed
- • Avoid “Scene Optimizer” or AI-enhanced modes (they can alter colors)
- • Turn off “Beauty Mode” or “Auto HDR” if available
- • Use the main camera lens (1x), not ultra-wide
- • Set resolution to the highest available (usually 12MP or higher)
HEIC vs. JPEG: iPhones default to HEIC format to save storage space. Our scanner handles HEIC files automatically by converting them server-side, so either format works. However, JPEG is the universal standard and avoids any potential edge cases. When in doubt, switch to “Most Compatible” in your iPhone camera settings.
What If the Results Are Wrong?
AI is powerful but not perfect. The scanner provides suggestions, not guarantees. Here’s what to do:
- 1.Review every field before submitting. The scanner pre-fills make, model, HP, stroke type, shaft length, year, and weight — but you know your engine best.
- 2.Correct any mistakes using the edit fields. Your corrections actually improve the AI — every correction is stored and used to train better results for future scans.
- 3.Check the confidence badges. Green = high confidence, yellow = medium, red = low. Low-confidence fields should always be manually verified.
- 4.Use the serial number to cross-reference. If you have the serial/model number plate, you can look up the exact specs on the manufacturer’s website.
Ready to Scan?
Grab your phone, take 5+ clear photos of your engine, and let the AI do the rest.
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